2023—A Large Crop of Variable Reds and Somewhat Better Whites

VINTAGE SUMMARY

There are two keys to the story of the 2023 vintage: a huge potential crop load, and a heat spike at harvest time that came with little warning. How producers handled these two challenges determined their relative degrees of success in 2023. The results, in both whites and reds, are quite varied, and generalizations about this vintage are particularly difficult. Broadly speaking, however, there are a significant number of pleasant reds that will be enjoyable from an early age but few outstanding ones. There are, as well, many less successful reds, even from good producers: light (or sometimes heavy), fruity wines that may appeal to novice Burgundy drinkers but hold little interest for serious aficionados. The whites—again as a generalization–are more successful than the reds, with some excellent wines being made, but a still-substantial amount of inconsistency.

From the beginning, it was clear that, given decent weather, the crop would be enormous. Most conscientious producers severely debudded in the spring, which was essential, yet this often had to be followed up with a green harvest in order to keep yields even modestly in check. The next great challenge came at the beginning of September, when an unpredicted and extreme heat wave arrived, causing sugar levels to shoot up and acidities to drop. While some white wine producers had already begun harvesting, the red wine producers had to scramble to adjust their picking strategies–and sometimes to find enough pickers. Picking dates thus became extremely important: too early, and the wines could be acidic and lack balance; too late, and the wines, while ripe, could be fat and have very high pHs, not only affecting balance but also bringing the danger of developing VA and brett during fermentation. Still, I probably saw less VA in these wines than in those of the very hot ’22 vintage, but I also saw more attempts at acidification—which almost never goes well.

I don’t mean to be overly negative. Many of the 2023 reds from the better producers will provide both pleasure and early drinking, which is especially important in these days when restaurant lists are entirely populated by young vintages. Yet as with the 2000s, which are pleasant but not great wines, they are likely to last well. There is plenty of ripe fruit to enjoy, and terroir distinctions are, at most good producers, evident (at least at the premier and grand cru levels; there were relatively more overripe, anonymous wines at the Village level). Also, there is–surprisingly given the high pHs–a reasonable degree of freshness in most of the wines, and some as well that have a pleasing velvety texture. The better wines do have a good sense of balance. As a generalization, though, most lack density and complexity—remembering that, in this vintage, there are plenty of wines that can be held up as counterexamples to any generalization. And as my notes reflect, there are wines that surpass the vintage, and provide the kind of complexity, structure and balance that make them worth seeking out and cellaring.

Often, vintages with high yields can produce better whites than reds—1982 and 1979 being notable examples—and this is again true in ‘23. However, I don’t mean to suggest that 2023 is in the same category as those two outstanding vintages. It is a vintage in which there are many attractive whites, even a few great ones, but which also suffers from some of the same inconsistency that characterizes the red wines.

Unlike 2022, the ’23 growing season was not an especially hot one—until near the very end. The spring weather, if slightly cool, was generally benign, with adequate rainfall, and the vines were heavy with buds. Most responsible producers chose to debud severely—one vintner described finding 23-25 buds per vine and reducing this to 7. Flowering in the first part of June went very quickly and well. Summer, however, was on the cool side, with occasional storms, including a hailstorm on July 11^th that affected yields in Meursault, St. Aubin and a bit in Volnay. Given these conditions, the vines did not suffer hydric stress, as they had in 2022. However, even with severe debudding, the bunches were large and heavy, and quite a few producers chose to green harvest. Green harvesting, though, is not always successful: too early, and the remaining grapes swell to compensate; too late, and the quality of the remaining grapes is already fixed, so that while a producer can bring yields down below the maximum permitted, and provide a talking point, the resulting wines may still be just as dilute. Meanwhile, in 2023 it turned out that even after green harvesting, average bunch weights were well above normal, increasing the yields. According to the BIVB, overall volume in 2023 was up 29% from the 5-year average, and 9% from the prior year.

The second half of August was unsettled, with a heat wave starting on the 18^th that was followed by a rainstorm on the 26^th, and then several days of clouds, which slowed maturity considerably. The forecast at the end of August was for yet more cool and rainy weather. Then, with little warning, extreme heat arrived in early September, and the grapes evolved rapidly, with potential alcohols rising as much as 2% in one week, and pHs increasing even faster–indeed, while most of the wines we saw were within a normal alcoholic range, pHs for the reds were well above average for all but a few. 

Growers (apart from those white wine producers who had already begun in August) had to decide whether to accelerate their harvest dates, and then had to find pickers to carry out their strategies. Because of the extreme heat, picking typically started early in the morning, and stopped by noon or 1 pm, which contributed to a generally prolonged harvest at many domaines. In addition, the grapes came in very warm, and those who had the facilities to cool them prior to vatting had a distinct advantage. On September 12^th, there was a significant rainstorm, which marked a turning point in the harvest, although it is altogether unclear if for better or worse—one white producer thought very much for the worse, while a successful red producer felt it had been important to wait for the cooler weather that followed the rain. And at every domaine, there are some vineyards that customarily ripen ahead of others, making for a complicated calculus. As a result, we often saw significant variations even within the same cellar, depending on when the wines were picked. 

Some producers decided to do a saignée, in which the free-run juice produced by the weight of the grapes is bled off. Usually this is done to increase concentration, with some who do it believing that it not only increases density but also takes away the highest-sugar, least acidic juice and so results in better-balanced wines. Those who eschew it tend to believe that it bleeds off the best-quality juice. In general, though, a saignée of 10% or less is not thought to be deleterious. Also, use of whole clusters, which seems to be gaining in popularity with climate change, was increasingly widespread in this vintage. Without my wishing to digress into an extremely complex subject, it may nonetheless be useful to point out that the inclusion of stems will typically lower alcohol levels, which can be a benefit in ripe vintages, but that the stems also tend to be high in potassium, which increases pH levels. 

Malos were generally rapid, and sometimes occurred during the alcoholic fermentation, though in a few places they were substantially slower. (Several producers mentioned that there is less malic acidity in the wines in recent warm vintages than in the past.) There were no reports of difficult fermentations, and a number of reports that the wines had gained in balance and complexity during the elevage.

In reviewing my notes, I am struck not just by the different approaches among the producers we visit, which is perhaps to be expected in a challenging vintage (described by many as a winegrower’s, or winemaker’s, vintage), but by how much inconsistency there was among producers’ descriptions of the vintage. In one view, ’23 was a hot year (which it technically was when one averages in the exceptionally hot spells); others thought that it should be viewed as a cold year (with extended cool periods during the growing season). Elsewhere, some producers noted there had been very little malic acidity, while another said that it was 30% higher than the prior year. Several said maturities were homogeneous and little sorting was necessary but others reported more significant sorting, to eliminate less ripe grapes (common in large vintages) and shriveled ones. And then there is the usual salesmanship to sort through: one producer described the vintage as classic and structured and then proceeded to show us wines that were anything but.

There will inevitably be debates about the relative merits of the ’22 and ’23 reds. A lot of measures—yields, alcoholic degree, pHs—were relatively similar. Christophe Roumier, always a source of wisdom and unvarnished commentary, said that for him, ’23s were more muscular, ’22s more graceful and harmonious; in ’23 the tannins had dominated at first, but even though the wines were now calmer, he still felt the ’22s were more elegant. Another red producer said that his ‘22s were more built around their fruit, while the ‘23s were more floral and minerally, and indeed there does seem to be a freshness in the better ’23 reds that’s not always present to the same degree in the ‘22s

Among the whites, as noted, there are more successes, and many producers had picked, or at least begun, before the September heat wave. As the individual reviews suggest, this will be a useful white wine vintage, providing at least some near- and medium-term pleasure, and with careful selection there are also wines, particularly but not exclusively among the grands crus, that are outstanding and will stand comparison with the best ‘22s and even ‘20s.

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Some Other Notes and Observations:

The topic on everyone’s mind last November was the harvest just concluded. 2024 is a quantitative disaster, particularly in the Côte de Nuits. It rained almost constantly throughout the growing season, which necessitated constant spraying against mildew, oidium and botrytis—a particular burden for those farming organically and biodynamically, as the permitted sprays wash off easily in the next rainstorm. It is too early to make any predictions about quality, but apart from whites, which were less affected, there will be little wine, good or bad, in 2024.

Another development that has engendered considerable discussion is the increasing failure of the widely planted 161-49 rootstock. While it seems that plantings in the last decade or two are the main problem, we did hear reports of older plantings being affected as well. As a result, there is extensive replanting going on, which seems likely to increase considerably in coming years, putting further pressure on production.

As I’ve mentioned previously, the distinction between negociants and domaines has become increasingly blurred, but 2023 may have been a key turning point, as the venerable Maison Bouchard has abandoned its negociant business entirely, to focus on its domaine holdings. More about this below.

In the producer reviews below, I have focused on the wines I particularly liked, while otherwise endeavoring to give an overall impression of the range.

RED WINES

Côte de Nuits Producers:

Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. Bertrand de Villaine commented that the wines seemed less open and more powerful than they had a week earlier, and I have to say that they did seem to be more powerful than is typical for the domaine, and in some cases even a touch burly. The power, though, was very much to the advantage of the Richebourg, which tended toward dark fruit, with good density and the characteristic green note from the stems, but which also had great balance and a mineral purity to it. On this day, it was showing better than the Romanée St.-Vivant, which seemed a bit lighter, without necessarily having gained its customary elegance. Similarly, the La Tache, which had the characteristic brilliant complex spice on the nose, lovely red fruit, and great purity and lift, along with somewhat prominent tannins on the finish, on this particular day seemed more appealing than the Romanée-Conti, which was uncharacteristically brooding and relatively heavy for RC, with more density and depth than La Tache but not quite the same purity, and which at least today was not displaying its customary grace and elegance. While I can only report what I tasted on a particular day, I had a feeling that these wines were still in transition, and not yet settled into their final “personalities,” and so I would not be surprised if a tasting later in their elevage yielded somewhat different impressions.

Liger-Belair. Yields here were lower than in ’22, in the range of 36-37 hl/ha on average. Here, the wines tended to reflect the vintage in that there was a tendency toward lightness and delicacy, though the best also displayed good density along with fine balance. Among my favorites here were the Vosne Clos du Château, soft and easy on entry, with a velvet touch, that gained in complexity towards the back and on the extended finish; the Vosne La Croix Rameau (part of the lease of vineyards formerly farmed by Lamarche), again on the lighter side but with a wonderful silkiness—a transparent, balanced and elegant wine; and the Vosne Suchots, a bit delicate but with great balance and charm. The Vosne Malconsorts (another former Lamarche holding) was a standout, with great presence, exceptional balance, a saline note, black cherry fruit and an extremely persistent mineral finish. The Echézeaux also displayed excellent presence, with good density, a velvet mouthfeel, and a minerally purity. The Grands Echézeaux (also ex-Lamarche) showed complex red fruit and a spicy oak note on the nose and was dense and balanced, with a long, transparent finish. La Romanée was transporting: with a mix of red and black fruit notes on the nose, on the palate it was pure and elegant, extremely complex, velvety and transparent, with and a bright and deeply spicy finish. 

Georges Mugneret-Gibourg. Picking began September 7^th and lasted only about a week. Quantities were similar to those in ’22, and alcohol levels were in the range of 13-14%. Overall, this was another successful vintage for the domaine. The Vosne Village had bright red fruit, a tobacco note, good density and characteristic Vosne spiciness, with an extended finish. Even better were the Vosne Colombière, with sweet black cherries, a velvet quality, and fine balance and transparency; and the Nuits Au Bas de Combe, which was earthy and had an oyster shell note on the nose–this had good tension, a remarkable silky texture, and a persistent finish. The Chambolle Feusselottes, while slightly reduced, was again quite velvety, with excellent weight and balance, a mineral underpinning, and refined tannins. The Echézeaux, which was made with 12% whole cluster and had the characteristic green note as a result, was quite spicy, with soy and cocoa notes, an amazing velvety texture and soft, buried tannins plus a very spicy, mineral-driven finish. Indeed, I preferred it this year to the Ruchottes-Chambertin, which was not quite together yet, and perhaps marginally as well to the excellent Clos de Vougeot, which exhibited blue fruit on the nose, a creamy texture, and a charming rondeur, with a pure and velvety finish. 

Georges Roumier. Christophe Roumier reported the largest harvest at the domaine since 1999. He began picking September 13, after the rain, and Christophe felt that some of his neighbors had started too early, fearing that the heat would continue. Alcohol levels were between 13.1-13.6%, and pHs between 3.55-3.64, the latter almost the same as in 2022. Christophe was one of the few willing to essay a vintage comparison, saying it was a somewhat stronger version of 2017. The wines all included a percentage of whole clusters, from 50% for the Village up to 75-80% for the grands crus. As usual, Christophe’s were among the more successful wines of the vintage. The Chambolle Village was particularly successful, showing sweet cherry fruit, a spicy note, and a pure mineral center—a light (by Roumier standards) and completely charming wine, with a long mineral finish. The Chambolle Les Cras was more serious and intense, but also quite transparent and complex, while the Echézeaux (as the result of an additional acquisition, it is now 2/3 from Champs Traversins and 1/3 from En Orveaux) was powerful and transparent, but (as reflected by its place in the tasting order) still a work in progress, while the Charmes-Chambertin was one of the better recent examples, pure and soft. The Bonnes Mares, in final blend, was excellent (because of volume, Christophe wasn’t able to vinify the red and white soil wines separately this year) . It had notes of black cherry and garrigue on the nose, with the palate showing great equilibrium and characteristic drive; this was a dense and serious wine with a mineral underpinning, and the tannins, while clearly present, were refined. The seriousness of the Bonnes Mares contrasted with the pure, perfumed and lively Chambolle Amoureuses, with a touch of the stems, plenty of red fruit, and great balance and harmony. The tannins, while still prominent, were (to use Christophe’s word) “sophisticated”; but the most remarkable thing about this wine was the almost endless finish, dancing on the tongue for over a minute– until it was time to taste the Musigny. This was even more perfumed than the Amoureuses, with red fruit, touches of cocoa and licorice and the classic blood orange note; it had perfect balance, with great complexity, a sense of presence, and completely refined tannins, as well as a lingering finish that was a bit denser than that of the Amoureuses, and Christophe said he found the wine more solid and serious than Amoureuses. In all, even though not likely to challenge the greatest vintages of the domaine, this is a highly successful range of wines in 2023.

Hudelot-Noellat. Charles van Canneyt said he thought the ‘23s, while enjoyable now, had potential to take on more complexity, and would keep well. He likes the silky tannins of the vintage and finds the wines remarkably fresh for such a ripe vintage. He began picking on September 10^th, and thinks that overall, quality went down quickly after the 16^th. His yields were about 40-45 hl/ha for the grands crus, and he performed a 10% saignée, with resulting alcohol levels in the range of 13.5% and final pHs about 3.50-3.55. Overall, there were some excellent wines in the range, but also some inconsistency, as is typical in this vintage. We begin with a ripe, rich but balanced Bourgogne rouge, followed by a Chambolle Village that was bursting with ripe fruit and had an interesting gamy touch. The Vosne Village was even better: spicy, dense, with silky tannins and excellent freshness. Of the premiers crus, I particularly liked the Vougeot Petits Vougeots (always an underrated cuvée; we tasted a terrific ’10 on another occasion during this trip), with notes of raspberries and violets supported by a bright minerally acidity; the Nuits Murgers (now only old vines as a large section planted on 161-49 rootstock had to be pulled up), which was dense and earthy but more transparent on the finish; and a particularly impressive Vosne Malconsorts, with a spicy, dense, and deep black fruit nose, a pure middle, and great line and balance, leading to an extremely extended, saline mineral finish. The Romanée St.-Vivant had a reserved nose, but was surprisingly broad-shouldered and dense on the palate, with a super-spicy, juicy finish and buried tannins. By contrast, the nose of the Richebourg jumped out of the glass, with raspberries, cassis, soy and tobacco notes, seeming more open and purer than the RSV (as was also the case at DRC the day before), and while in a slightly lighter than usual style, it was quite silky.

We also tasted a few of the wines from the recent acquisition of vineyards from Domaine Chézeaux (they will keep this name). These are made in a different, colder cellar and in consequence had late malos and were behind the others in the aging process. Of those we tasted, the old vines Gevrey Cazetiers particularly stood out; it was ripe and transparent, with very good drive and balance, refined tannins, and a long, saline finish.

Jean Grivot. Etienne Grivot began picking on September 12^th and finished on the 24^th, and said there was a big difference in maturities between those dates. Despite two green harvests, the domaine only came in 5% under the allowable maximum yields. Etienne compared ’23 to 2000 and believes it will last as well. In his opinion, ’22 was built more around fruit, while ’23 is more floral and mineral. This year, we tasted far fewer cuvées than usual, as Etienne wanted to move quickly through the barrel cellar to show us his newly restored facility, called Villa Velle. This is in an ancient part of the cellar that was part of a former convent and has now been turned into a highly atmospheric suite for tastings and receptions. Of the wines we did see, most were somewhat reduced. They almost always are at this domaine at this time of year, and while in general, some amount of reduction doesn’t interfere with judging the wine (particularly where there are years of prior experience to go on), heavier levels of reduction can make evaluation difficult, particularly when added to the inconsistency of this vintage. That said, I did like the Nuits Pruliers, which was a serious, earthy wine, with some bright red fruit and good freshness; the Nuits Roncières, which had touches of white flower, garrigue, and white pepper and an open, fresh finish; a crowd-pleasing Vosne Beaumonts, which while not dense, was highly charming; and the Clos de Vougeot, which had plummy fruit and was much more suave and minerally than usual, with the tannins present but hidden under a lot of velvety fruit. The Richebourg was more difficult to read because of the reduction, but exuded a sense of power and density, with notes of plum, spice, coffee, and soy, plus some pure minerality and some slightly (if less so than usual) chewy tannins on the extremely long finish. 

Comte Georges de Vogüé. Ever since Jean Lupatelli replaced François Millet as winemaker, this domaine has been arcing upward towards its former heights, and in 2023 clearly outperformed the vintage. The harvest here began September 6^th and finished a week later, with yields of 35-40 hl/ha, or about 40% above average, notwithstanding a very severe debudding in the spring and a green harvest in July. Whole cluster use was about 50%. The Chambolle Village had a very primary red fruit nose, with minerals under, and was clean and ripe, an easy drinking wine. The Chambolle 1er Cru, made from “young vines” Musigny (though these are now 16 years old), gave a taste of what was to come: while it showed some of the plummy fruit of younger vines, it was very pure and minerally in the middle, with a spicy, citrus touch, and if a bit light was on the elegant side, with a clear, bright mineral finish. The Chambolle Amoureuses was particularly fine—though half the plot was uprooted in 2022, so this will be hard to find. The nose was bright, with a complex mix of red and black fruit, a spicy note, and a touch of soy; the sweet fruit entry was followed by excellent mineral lift, a pure and delineated mid-palate with a dense stoniness, and a striking finish—very persistent, juicy, and pure, with refined tannins. The Bonnes Mares, if not quite as exciting, was also very fine, with a nose of primary fruit, garrigue, and cocoa; there was real depth and a density here that is unusual for the ‘23s; this had power and drive, and a fair amount of tannin still to resolve, with a very long, pure, citrus-inflected finish. The Musigny was from a single barrel sample, not a blend (the domaine vinifies various parcels separately), making it harder to evaluate the final wine, but despite some reduction on the nose one had a sense of depth and elegance; there was ample sweet fruit on the entry, then notes of coffee, minerals, almonds, and blood orange, leading to a juicy saline finish that was extremely persistent, with a great deal of dry extract. Once blended with the other parcels, this should be quite special in the context of the vintage. 

J.-F. Mugnier. Freddy said that, at 45-50 hl/ha, this was the largest harvest of his career. Harvesting began on September 7^th, and alcohol levels were 13.5-14%, with pHs about 3.6. He compared the vintage to 2002, which was initially considered pretty but not serious. The wines here were very good for the vintage, beginning with a Chambolle Village that was open and accessible, with bright red fruit, medium body, and a long finish; a Nuits Clos de la Maréchale that was sweet and ripe, and while it seemed soft for Maréchale it was quite charming; and a Chambolle Fuées that was also open-knit, with strawberry notes, good mineral underpinning, and some dry extract. The Chambolle Amoureuses was a further step up, showing red cherries and strawberries on the slightly reduced nose, and a beautiful pure middle, with remarkable transparency; while in a lighter style this had finesse, the only nit a slight dustiness on the finish that brought it back to earth. The Musigny, though still quite reserved, projected calm and finesse, and gathered its force toward the back end, with a lovely pure mineral finish. 

Château de la Tour/François Labet. Edouard Labet, who is taking increasing responsibility here, felt there was good concentration and energy in the ‘23s. Picking began here on September 9^th for the reds, and volumes were similar to those in 2022, with average alcohols about 13%. This year we tasted several different blending elements of the Clos de Vougeot Cuvée Classique, with differing amounts of whole cluster (the final blend will be about 50%), and while it was not easy to estimate the final results once the cuvées are blended, there was clearly a lot of high quality raw material here, with one cuvée that was silky, light, round, juicy, and approachable being matched by another that was much denser and heavier, but with great purity. We then tasted the Vieilles Vignes cuvée from three different barrels, one new and two older, and again there were perceptible differences but overall, a suggestion that these would likely balance each other extremely well. I expect both wines to be successful and look forward to tasting the final blends.

Among the Labet reds, the Beaune Coucherias stood out, with a sophisticated nose, and earthy, cassis, and cumin notes on the palate—made with 55% whole cluster, it is an interesting and very good wine. The Gevrey Village Vieilles Vignes was also very successful, with notes of cassis and grilled meat, good density, and chewy but ripe tannins.

Duroché. Pierre Duroché was among the earliest to harvest in Gevrey. The domaine had pruned back to 6 buds/vine in the spring and so felt only a small green harvest was necessary. Yields were 40-45 hl/ha, and alcohol levels generally 12.5-13.5%, with pHs of 3.25-3.50 for most cuvées. According to Pierre, the ‘23s had originally seemed overripe, but during the elevage, gained in minerality and elegance. The reds were all in vats and will be bottled in December. As is typical, there was some variation here, but mainly these were very successful wines. The Bourgogne, which like all these wines was deeply colored, had notes of wild cherry and citrus on the nose, plus delicious ripe fruit on the palate–a very easy to like Bourgogne. The Gevrey Village, despite slight reduction on the nose, was suave and velvety on the palate, with soft tannins and a mineral aftertaste—a very beguiling Village wine. The compelling Gevrey Etelois had a complex spicy nose with notes of blackberry and grilled meat, and a velvet touch, a mineral underpinning and a pure finish. The Lavaux St.-Jacques had a discreet, reduced nose and was velvety, with good acidic lift, the tannins still a bit strong but covered, and excellent intensity in back, with a long subtle mineral finish; this needs some added time but should eventually be quite fine. The Clos de Bèze had aromas of black fruit, soy and mustard seed, along with some very slight reduction; on the palate it was a soft and elegantly styled Bèze, rather than a powerful one, with recessive tannins, fine balance, and silk at the end.

Bruno Clair. Arthur Clair told us harvest began here on September 9^th and lasted for three weeks. Yields were relatively lower in Marsannay (25 hl/ha) but 40-45 hl/ha for most other cuvées. Average alcohols were on the low side for this vintage, 12.2-12.8%, though pHs were not low, at about 3.50 on average. The domaine used significant amounts of whole cluster—mostly around 50%–which Arthur felt gave a sense of freshness to the wines. While the Marsannays were pleasant and had good density, this range really showed best at the higher levels. The Gevrey Clos St.-Jacques had lovely purity, a perfumed note, excellent density and great charm; the finish was saline, pure, silky, and very long. The Clos de Bèze, not unlike Duroché’s, was in a lighter style, but I liked its openness and its transparency. The Bonnes Mares was particularly fine, with a nose of black cherry, perfume, hay, and cocoa; the stems gave it a lovely perfumed touch and on the palate, this was bright and open, with powerful but very refined tannins and terrific purity and balance, all leading to an extremely long, refined, mineral finish. A Bonnes Mares to match up against the Roumier!

Trapet. Harvesting started here on September 6^th, but extended to September 18^th. Louis Trapet said maturity had been homogenous, and alcohol levels were around 12.8%, with pHs in the range of 3.65-3.70. For the Gevreys, whole cluster use was between 50-80%. There were some excellent wines here, if also an amount of inconsistency that as I’ve noted previously is to be expected in this vintage. I particularly liked the Gevrey Cuvée 1859 (if you can find the 2019 version of this, buy it!), an old vines cuvée with a deep, pure color, a succulent note of wild boar (yes, really!), rich and ripe red fruit, a silky texture, excellent balance, and a transparent finish with ripe tannins. The Gevrey En Ergot wasn’t quite in the same category, though it had bright fruit and nice transparency, but it holds particular interest as, according to Louis, in the 20^th century no one bottled En Ergot separately. The Gevrey Clos Prieur had a deep nose, and was spicy, meaty, with a licorice note and a juiciness on the extended finish, and the Gevrey Combottes had good complexity, with red and black fruit, mousserons, cocoa and spiced meat, medium body, good purity and a finish tending to cream, minerals, and some slightly dry tannins. The Chambertin was in good form, with a smoky note, a pure sense of the terroir, sweet fruit, a coffee note; it was medium-bodied but with plenty of power, and had very refined tannins and an extended finish.

Dujac. The reds were harvested beginning September 6^th through the 15^th. Jeremy Seysses said that while they had done a green harvest, bunch weights nevertheless exceeded expectations. He also noted that he thinks that Burgundy is likely to move to larger barrels, as warmer vintages tend to show the oak more, and mentioned that the domaine is now using 50% new oak, down from 60-70%. [We did throughout our trip see various experiments (and sometimes transitions) underway with larger barrels, as well as amphorae and glass, though the latter seems to be losing whatever brief favor it had, as the resulting wines can be very reductive.] The wines here generally showed quite well, despite being typically reduced at this stage of their development. Those I particularly liked included a Gevrey Combottes that was quite terroir-driven and finished with a very long, pure finish; a Vosne Beaumonts that, notwithstanding its reduction, reflected the stem influence and showed lovely line, balance, and purity; and an Echézeaux that was full of fruit, creamy, dense and with a saline finish. In the classic pairing of Clos St. Denis and Clos de la Roche, I marginally preferred the Clos St. Denis this year, with its touches of green olive and champignons, a lightness that reflected delicacy rather than lack of body, and great charm, while the Clos de la Roche was more tightly knit, and heavier, with the oak still prominent, though on the finish there was great power and purity. The Bonnes Mares was quite serious, with dark fruit, garrigue and an almost tarry element on the nose, but real purity and subtlety in the middle, and refined tannins on the finish. 

Lambrays. Jacques Devauges said that the domaine had originally planned to begin harvesting on September 11th but ended up rushing to start on the 7^th instead. Despite a green harvest at the end of July, yields were 40% above the 30-year average, at 41 hl/ha. He did not see a parallel vintage, and said ’17 showed less volume in the mouth. Alcohol levels for the Clos were 13.8%, pH 3.65, and it was made with 80% whole cluster and raised in 50% new oak. These were all very well-made wines and a clear success for the vintage. The Morey Village showed good freshness and minerality, while the Morey 1er Cru Les Loups was earthy, spicy, and transparent, with a bright open finish that was complex and juicy. The Morey Clos Baulet had citrus and floral elements on the nose, good density, a sense of underbrush, and a saline, minerally finish, while the Morey Clos Sorbès was even better, with excellent purity and refinement. I also liked the Vosne Beaumonts, which was accessible and bright, though its Vosne character seemed a little tempered, perhaps by the Morey cellar yeasts. That did not seem true, however, of the Nuits La Richemone, which reflected its Nuits terroir, along with sweet fruit and a citrus touch, and was seamless, with a velvety finish. The Clos des Lambrays itself was quite fine, with a nose of red fruit, citrus, underbrush, and minerals; on the palate, it was quite velvety, showing ripe fruit, good transparency and an elegant, floral quality on the exceptionally long finish. (Here, we were able to directly compare it with the ’22, which was denser and richer than the ’23, but not as juicy and fresh.)

Domaine Ponsot. Harvest here was quite late, beginning on September 16^th, though lasting only until the 20^th. Though harvesting on the late side has served this domaine well over the years, I’m not sure it was the right decision in this vintage. Alexandre Abel said they had not acidified the wines, but for whatever reason, most of the range was not showing especially well on this day and might need to be revisited. That said, the Clos de la Roche was showing well, with a nose of dark fruits, a touch of toast and champignons; it was big and powerful, but with refined tannins. 

Clos de Tart. The harvest here began quite early, on September 3^rd. Alessandro Noli said that while they had done some green harvesting, a strict selection in the vineyard before even bringing the wines to the winery had resulted in yields of 34 hl/ha, with alcohol levels of 13.4-13.5% and final pHs of 3.65-3.70. La Forge de Tart, which is mostly comprised either of younger vines or lesser clones, had a lot of ripe fruit, a velvety touch and good supporting acidity, if some slightly rough tannins. The Clos de Tart, made with about 60% whole cluster and raised in 50% new oak, had an initial note of dried cèpes, and mustard seed, with red berry fruit under; it was soft, open, medium weight, with a touch of velvet, along with a hard minerality and refined tannins. It is a very refined, and certainly well-made, wine, if perhaps lacking a bit of soul. 

Berthaut-Gerbet. Amélie Berthaut began the harvest relatively early for reds, on September 4^th, but did not finish until the 21^st. Yields ranged from 40 hl/ha up to 50 in the Hautes-Côtes, and pHs averaged about 3.50. The range, as elsewhere, is inconsistent, but is quite successful at the higher end. The Vosne Petits Monts had deep spice on the nose, and good purity, though it reflected the lightness of the vintage. The Fixin Hervelets, a flagship of the domaine, had lovely fruit expression, along with roast meat notes, and great presence and balance on the palate. The Clos Vougeot was particularly good, with blackberry notes, excellent density and presence, fine balance, ripe tannins and a spicy, saline, and persistent finish. The Echézeaux, picked on the first day, was also very fine, with the 60% stems giving some real depth and perfume to the nose and palate; this had good line and balance, with tannins that were slightly fiercer than those of the Clos Vougeot but not coarse, and a spicy, saline finish.

Jean-Marc Millot. Alix Millot said that the harvest had started on September 7^th, and that they had brought in 25 extra harvesters to finish in 6 days. Average yields were 42 hl/ha, alcohols 12.5-13% and pHs 3.5-3.8. Alix said that the ‘23s had less strong tannins than the ‘22s and were easier to drink; she compared the ‘23s to ’17 but noted that sorting was important. Here too, the results were mixed, and generally better at the higher levels. The Savigny Village had good balance and was savory and fresh, if slightly simple, and the Nuits Village was a classic Nuits with charming red fruit and earth notes, and was pure and fresh, if with slightly rustic tannins at the finish (hey, it’s Nuits). The Echézeaux was showing some reduction, but was complex, minerally, and spicy, while the Echézeaux du Dessus Cuvée 1949, despite not having come together yet, was showing an elegance and a refinement to the tannins that suggest a better future ahead. The Clos de Vougeot, though quite reduced, had blueberry and blackberry fruit on the nose, and was dense, brooding and powerful, with a long pure black fruit finish. The Grands Echézeaux was also still in an early stage (or reacting to a fairly sharp drop in barometric pressure), and quite reduced, with the tannins prominent but also the power and character of the appellation, and very good freshness; again, this has the elements to be an excellent wine but needs time to come together. 

Faiveley. Erwan Faiveley believes (correctly, in my view) that ’23 is very inconsistent, and that controlling yields was key. In his view, both debudding and a green harvest were needed. He noted that crop loads seemed to increase as one went further north in the Côte de Nuits, as did pHs, with the highest reaching 3.7-3.8. Alcohols here were between 13-13.5%. I did find the ‘23s here generally pleasing, if inconsistent, and a number of them reminded me of the ‘00s, which had—and often still have—charm, but lack structure. Among the successes were a balanced, fresh, and fruity Chambolle Charmes; a Clos de Bèze suffused with sweet fruit–a powerful wine, not structured but with a transparent, balanced and long finish; and a Mazis-Chambertin that was meaty and more minerally, with bright strawberry fruit and a sense of stoniness after, along with ripe tannins. I particularly liked the Corton Clos des Cortons Faiveley, with its sense of reserved strength, excellent balance, and resolved tannins, and the Latricières-Chambertin, which despite a record high yield, and very sweet ripe fruit, kept a strong sense of tension, and the terroir was evident. 

Côte de Beaune Producers:

Marquis d’Angerville. Guillaume d’Angerville said the domaine began picking on September 4^th and took a relatively long 9 days. Average yields were 40 hl/ha, only marginally higher than in ’22 but a good bit less than in ’99 and ’90. Alcohols, which were mostly in the range of 13.2-13.8, were higher than in ’22, while pHs in ’23 were 3.5-3.6. The domaine did not do a green harvest. The Volnay Village, while carrying a higher alcohol level, was full of rich fruit and easily approachable, as was the Volnay 1er Cru. I quite liked the Volnay Frémiets, with a nose of dark fruits, cinnamon and minerals that jumped out of the glass, ripe tannins, and a long, saline finish. Best though were the Volnay Champans, with notes of raspberry and cherry cola on the nose, a minerally purity in the center, ripe and refined tannins, and an extended, spicy, slightly saline finish; and the Volnay Clos des Ducs, the most dense wine of the range, with cocoa, cinnamon, red raspberries and some blue fruit on the nose; on the palate, it was high-toned, powerful, minerally, and driven, with a brilliant pure and balanced finish. Guillaume felt these wines were close to ready and said he would bottle a bit earlier than usual—February or March, instead of May. 

Lafarge. Frederic Lafarge described ‘23 as not too hot, not too cold, with rain at the right time, and he thought it was an excellent vintage for both reds and whites. The harvest here started on September 7^th and finished on the 22^nd. The Volnay Village had a deep black fruit and cinnamon nose and excellent texture, along with a fair amount of tannin still to resolve. The Beaunes, curiously, had not finished malo (nor had the Volnay Pitures), while all the others had finished in March or April. Nonetheless, the Beaune Grèves, which produced 32 hl/ha in this vintage, had remarkable purity and seems likely to be an excellent wine. The Volnay premier crus here were quite successful, with the Mitans showing very sweet fruit, a dense, minerally and tannic middle, and some dry tannins, while the Caillerets was sweet and pure, and very long, though with some hard tannins still to resolve. The Clos du Château des Ducs was remarkably deep and powerful in the context of this vintage, full of dry extract but also showing rich sweet fruit with a mineral underpinning, and ripe tannins. I thought the Clos des Chênes was more refined, with a deep nose that included a gamy note, a remarkable purity and mineral quality to the palate, and a long finish with some still prominent but refined tannins to resolve. 

Y. Clerget. Thibaud Clerget is one of a generation of young winemakers that has risen to prominence quite quickly; but if seemingly untroubled by success, he nonetheless remains serious about his craft and his wines reflect an increasing sophistication. The harvest here began on September 6 and lasted nine days. Thibaud did a lot of debudding, though not a green harvest, and as a result average yields were only about 30 hl/ha. Alcohols were mostly around 13.5%, though the Clos de Verseuil reached 13.8. Whole bunch use here varies considerably by cuvée, and the use of new oak is moderate, averaging around 25% for the premier crus. The top wines here are excellent, though a few were heavily reduced and thus hard to finally judge. The Volnay En Champans (good luck finding it–only 1 barrel was made, and it will be bottled exclusively in magnum), made with 100% whole bunch, was silky and had serious depth and purity. The Pommard Rugiens, made with 25% whole bunch, was more structured and earthier than the Volnays (“you can smell the iron and blood in the nose”, said Thibaud), while the Clos de Vougeot, 50% whole cluster, had a brambly note on the nose, and was silky, though with more tannin than the other cuvées. (We did not taste the Cuvée Felix, which was not yet racked.) Better still were the Volnay Carelle Sous la Chapelle, all destemmed, with some reduction still on the nose but soft and silky red fruit, cinnamon notes and a mineral finish, and the Volnay Clos de Verseuil, a monopole, which was also all destemmed, an elegant pure wine with deep minerality, refined but still strong tannins, and a charming silky finish. Best of all, in my view, was the Volnay Caillerets, from 95-year-old vines yielding only 12 hl/ha, and which was totally destemmed. This too was very silky, and was a wine with perfect balance, elegant and understated and with seductive, super-refined tannins on a very long finish. 

Comte Armand. The domaine has now taken on four negociant wines, made from purchased grapes. In ’23, they used 45% new oak for most cuvées, more than usual due to the difficulty of finding used barrels in this prolific vintage. In addition, most of the samples we saw were from new oak barrels, which (especially given the lightness of this vintage) marked them to a degree that made it difficult to determine how the final wine would be. We did, however, taste both multiple cuvées and then the approximate final blend of the Clos des Epeneaux, which while also showing the oak influence on the nose, had a lovely mid-palate with great lift and vibrancy, and was complex and minerally with excellent purity. 

Chandon de Briailles. François de Nicolay told us that the domaine has entirely ceased using tractors in the vineyards, feeling that they compacted the soil too much, and that he already sees more salinity in the wines from the resulting soil decompaction. Harvest here began on August 31^st and finished on September 15^th. Yields were between 30-40 hl/ha. As is customary here, the wines are 100% whole cluster. The ‘23s were bottled early, before the 2024 harvest, to maintain freshness. François thinks the vintage is a bit fragile and doesn’t have the same balance as the ‘22s, but said they are riper and have more body than ‘17. We did not see the entire range, but among the wines I liked were the Savigny Lavières, a rich and plummy wine with good weight that will provide easy and enjoyable drinking; and the Aloxe-Corton Les Valozières, with a nose of strawberries and perfume, good density, a creamy texture, some chewy tannins and a dry saline finish. The Corton Clos du Roi was, as it should be, a step up, with a nose of rich, ripe fruit, including red currants; a bright open entry, good density, and clear Corton character, with some strong but relatively refined tannins. 

Bachelet-Monnot. While this domaine is better known for its whites (reviewed below), it does produce a range of good reds as well, mostly from Maranges and Santenay. Among the successes here were the Maranges Clos de la Boutière, from 92-year-old vines, which had a reticent nose but a dense palate with a very nice direct red fruit expression; and a Santenay Charmes, with soil tones on the nose, a bright but balanced acidity, and a tannic but pure finish.

Paul Pillot. As usual, the reds here should not be overlooked. The Bourgogne, made with 50% whole cluster, had a strong sense of the Chassagne terroir as well as some sweet fruit, and it drinks easily but with good body, while the Chassagne Clos St. Jean, made with 70% whole cluster, showed pure red fruit on the nose, a touch of leather, and a marine note; on the palate, it was dense, earthy, structured, and minerally, though the tannins seemed a bit on the dry side, at least for now. 

Chavy-Chouet. This is another predominantly white wine producer whose reds can represent very good value, including a surprising Maranges, with a nose of wild strawberries, a pure and open middle and some lovely fruit at the end, along with medium tannins—a very drinkable wine. The Pommard 1er Cru Chanlins, made with 50% whole cluster, was a new-style Pommard, lighter-bodied, fruit-infused and more approachable, with a sense of the stems, and with relatively restrained tannins. Best was the Volnay Sous La Chapelle, also 50% whole cluster, with a spicy and minerally nose, a light and open middle, excellent freshness and light tannins—again, very drinkable and charming. 

Bouchard Père & Fils. Significant changes are underway at Bouchard. With the 2023 vintage, they have stopped all their negociant activities and are now focused on the domaine properties, which extend to 100 hectares according to Technical Director Frédéric Weber. Further changes are coming as well: the Bouchard domaines in the Côte de Nuits (not extensive, at 4 ha, but including Bonnes Mares and Chambertin) will now be transferred to their sister estate, Artemis’s Domaine Eugenie, leaving Bouchard with 45 appellations in the Côte de Beaune (some of which are still operated under fermage agreements, which they hope to buy out and own directly). They also have acquired the Château de Puligny from de Montille, in exchange for several vineyard sites in Beaune and Volnay, and expect to transfer their vinification operations, at least for whites, to that facility. Farming is now all organic, with certification expected next year, and an increasing amount of it is biodynamic. 

While rumors continue to swirl about further changes at Bouchard, Gilles de la Rouzière, chair of the supervisory board at Artémis, was quite firm in stating that the core legacy of Maison Bouchard will be maintained. In terms of the results in 2023, it appears that allowing the team to focus on a more confined set of appellations has had quite positive effects, with the range of 2023s we tasted being a significant step up in overall quality from prior years. 

Weber said that a severe spring pruning had resulted in average yields that were no higher than in 2022, with the reds averaging about 13% alcohol. Harvest for the reds started on September 4^th. While we only saw a small selection from the range (the whites are discussed below), the reds had surprising density for the vintage, including a Savigny Lavières with good depth and a strong sense of its mineral underpinnings; the Beaune Grèves Enfant Jésus, which had a floral note (violets), some charming strawberry fruit on the nose, an open, terroir-driven palate, and silky tannins; and an impressively pure and dense Volnay Caillerets Cuvée Carnot, with attractive ripe fruit, a very transparent minerality, and tannins that were refined and barely in evidence. 

Drouhin. Veronique Drouhin said that the ‘23s had gained in density as they went through malo and then elevage. The maison used a percentage of whole bunches for the reds, up to 40% for the grands crus. She said the reds, which were picked beginning September 7^th, exhibited excellent phenolic maturity, and that the maison had made a concerted effort to pick quickly. Yields were mostly normal, around 35 hl/ha, with alcohol levels averaging about 13.5%. The range of reds showed particularly well here, including a balanced, elegant and refined Vosne Petits Monts; a perfumed, creamy-textured Chambolle Amoureuses with lovely fruit; and a deep, meaty, earthy and quite structured Griotte-Chambertin, with ripe tannins. The Clos de Bèze, which includes both estate and purchased fruit, was a spicy, meaty Bèze with cocoa notes, a minerally, dense and intense middle, and refined tannins—quite an excellent wine, especially in the context of the vintage. The Musigny, as usual, was the star of the show, with lovely purity on the nose, aromas of strawberry fruit, sautéed duck breast, a saline note, and the usual orange top note; on the palate, and through to the extended finish, this was silky, elegant and refined.

Jadot. Frédéric Barnier said that September had made the vintage. As with many others, the maison had done a green harvest to reduce yields, but bunch weights were still about 130 grams, compared to a normal 90-100. They performed a saignée to achieve more concentration, wherever the yields were high. Overall, he said, there was ½ degree more of alcohol than in ’22 (averaging 13.5% for the reds) but the same acidity; also overall, he felt the ‘23s were a bit richer, which was borne out generally in the tastings—there is a lot of sweet ripe fruit in these wines, and in general they are enjoyable without being profound. Among these, the ones I preferred were a dense Beaune Clos des Ursules, which had a striking minerality to it and a lovely fruit finish; and, as usual, a very fine Gevrey Clos St. Jacques, which had a bright nose of red fruit, earth and a meaty note, excellent presence and balance, and very refined tannins at the end. The Clos de Bèze, while quite ripe, was not overly so, and had strong presence and power, and polished tannins, and will be enjoyable from a young age. The Musigny was again the best wine in the range, with great fruit expression on the nose, charming fruit plus a citrus touch on the palate, and only a hint at the end of the refined tannins–again, a wine that will be accessible early, though it seems likely to last. To quote Frédéric, “accessible is what people are looking for now.”

Benjamin Leroux. Ben Leroux is a thoughtful and consistently excellent winemaker whose wines have never quite commanded the attention they deserve. Whether it’s because he has such a wide range of both reds and whites that, despite owning many of the properties, he’s viewed as a negociant, or because the wines are never flashy, or for some other reason, is hard to say. Of course, with any range this broad—particularly in 2023—there is going to be some inconsistency. Nonetheless, Leroux was very successful in 2023, with wines that, while ripe and accessible, clearly reflected their individual terroirs—though ultimately I think that his ‘22s, overall, may have more substance than the ‘23s.

Picking here began September 5^th in the Côte de Nuits and went quickly. A green harvest took place shortly after véraison, which Ben among others thinks is the only time it’s effective. The volume of reds was mostly 45 hl/ha on average, though greater in Gevrey (Ben said that it is always the case, because of the higher-yielding pinot varieties that were often planted there). Average alcohols were under 13.5% and pHs, he said, were not especially elevated. Significant amounts of whole bunch are used here. While we only saw a portion of the range, I was positively impressed by the Volnay Mitans, with great terroir character on the palate; and the Pommard Rugiens, from Rugiens Haut, that was also quite reflective of its terroir. The Gevrey En Champs was rich and ripe, a clear crowd-pleaser; and the Vosne Village was open-knit and charming, but not without good intensity and minerality at the back. The Vosne Au Dessus des Malconsorts was also quite ripe, but was full and with real substance, along with the characteristically enticing Vosne spice and a notably long finish. The Clos de Vougeot, made with 80% stems, had excellent density and a lot of dry extract and was well balanced, with good transparency, blackberry fruit, and an intensely spicy finish. Last came the Chambertin, also made with 80% stems, which had a bright nose and a palate that perfectly expressed this vintage: with medium weight, good terroir character, and ripe tannins, it was charming and ready to drink.

Philippe Pacalet. Philippe Pacalet, puckish and charming as ever, told us he had begun harvesting on September 4th, but that the harvest had stretched over 2 weeks. Alcohol levels were 12.5-13% and pHs on average 3.55. Philippe said he had left 1/3 of the grapes as unripe, and still got yields of 40-42 hl/ha. Overall, I did not find the range here to be at the same level as his ‘22s, though perhaps our tasting was affected by a sharp fall in barometric pressure that preceded a significant snowstorm. That said, the premiers crus were still showing well, including a spicy and dense Aloxe Corton 1er Cru, with excellent purity in the middle; a spicy and transparent Pommard Epenots with a juicy, saline finish; a classic Pommard Charmots, earthy and peppery with lots of sweet blackberry fruit; a more serious and muscular Pommard Rugiens Haut; an open, smoky and charming Chambolle Sentiers; and an easy, fruity Vosne Petits Monts that was also charming and accessible. Among the grands crus, the Charmes-Chambertin was similar to the 1er crus, with sweet ripe fruit, an open middle, and a bit of salinity at the end, while the Ruchottes-Chambertin was denser and more tannic, with notes of spice, meat and beetroot. (By the way, Pacalet also makes an excellent Moulin-a-Vent, dense and intense, with a long saline finish and a remarkable degree of refinement.)

Other Recommended Reds: These include a Chassagne La Cardeuse from Alex Moreau, made with 75% whole bunch, that had clear Chassagne typicity and attractive ripe fruit, along with spice and a green olive note; a spicy and dense Volnay Es Blanches from Pierre Vincent, made with 50% whole bunches; and an earthy, minerally Pommard Grands Epenots, with soft fruit but good acidic lift, from Pierre Girardin.

As in the past, a few of the producers we visit, most notably Michel Gaunoux and Laurent Ponsot among the red wine producers, do not show wines that are still in barrel, and so those are not covered here.

WHITE WINES

Côte de Beaune Producers:

Paul Pillot. Thierry Pillot has once again succeeded in making terrific whites, at least at the top levels in ‘23. Even though prices for Pillot’s wines have risen a good bit in recent years, these wines still seem (in the overall context of White Burgundy prices) quite fairly priced for their quality. Harvest here began on August 31^st, with yields for whites of about 50 hl/ha on average, though 40-42 hl/ha for the top cuvées, average alcohols of 12.5% and pHs between 3.20 and 3.25. 

While Pillot’s regional and Village wines can often represent good value, in ’23 quality took a big step up when we got to the premier crus. The Chassagne Champs-Gains had a lovely floral note on the nose, then great purity and energy on the palate, while the Chassagne Caillerets was balanced and pure, with quite sweet fruit but still good energy. There was then a further jump in quality to the Chassagne Grand Montagne, which had a creamy nose with notes of almond, citrus, and spice; there was plenty of volume here, and dry extract, and it was pure, fresh and driven, with an intense, persistent finish. The Chassagne Grand Ruchottes started with notes of citrus and apple, oyster shell and a hint of honey, followed by a lively minerality and plenty of drive, and then–after, in Thierry’s words, “a little austerity, that I like”– culminated with a rich and extended finish. The Chassagne La Romanée, despite a little reduction on the nose, seemed to have everything: a classic minerally and floral nose allied with pure fruit, leading to a palate notable for its balance, elegance and purity; it was quite voluminous at the end, with a tense limestone finish—a wine that can show up many grands crus.

Comtes Lafon. There has been a significant renaissance in quality here, evident at least since 2017, and ’23 is yet another successful vintage for the domaine. Pierre Lafon said that picking started on August 29^th for whites, and pHs for the range were between 3.25-3.30. Our tasting began auspiciously with the Meursault Village, which includes young vines from Perrières and Charmes. It had a bright nose that jumped from the glass, a lovely floral note and an easy-going, spicy, minerally mid-palate. The Meursault Clos de la Barre had excellent weight and balance, apple and beeswax notes, and a persistent, spicy finish, while the Puligny Les Charmes, new in this lineup in ’22 and located next to Meursault Charmes Dessous, had a bright citrus and mineral nose and was sweet and charming, if perhaps just slightly clumsy. The Meursault Poruzots, while restrained, had good terroir typicity, and a lovely finish, while the Meursault Genevrières had real intensity and vibrancy, and a stony and pure character. The Meursault Charmes was pure and floral, with a remarkable sense of self-confidence (one has to fall back on the pathetic fallacy every now and again), and some sweet fruit up on the finish. The Meursault Perrières, like each of the wines that came before it, was true to the appellation—this being stony, super-pure, and reserved, with floral notes, serious intensity and tension in the mid-palate, and a restrained but spicy and intense finish. Finally, “MO” (as the barrels are marked) was a large, complex and dense Montrachet, with aromas of spice, smoke, white flowers and honey; the palate was like biting into a ripe pear, and yet this wine was not at all flashy, but rather restrained, pure and elegant, with a seemingly endless finish. One of the highlight wines of the trip.

Latour-Giraud. Harvest began early here, on August 24^th, as Jean-Pierre Latour worried that the vintage could become overripe and heavy. The decision appears to have been a good one, as the range is quite fine in ’23. Because of the hailstorm in July, production in Genevrières was down 40%, and overall, the harvest size was normal. Alcohol levels were a degree higher than in ’22, and pHs averaged about 3.30. The Meursault Charles Maxime had a good mix of bright acidity, lemon cream, and a melon note, while the Meursault Charmes had a sharp-edged minerality, medium density, excellent tension, and an extended spicy saline finish. The Meursault Genevrières was a standout: with purity, depth and delicacy on the nose, it was a vibrant wine with citrus and floral notes, lots of dry extract, again excellent tension, and perfect equilibrium. The Meursault Perrières almost seemed a little brutish by comparison—more in power than finesse, with great sève, it was a wine that needed more time to resolve but it will be interesting to see how it evolves. Finally, the Meursault Genevrières Cuvée des Pierre was a bit richer and more buttery than the regular cuvée, with more density and complexity but perhaps also, to my taste, a bit more heaviness. This wine has come from very old vines in the heart of Latour-Giraud’s parcel, but after the ’23 harvest, those vines were pulled up, and so the cuvée will in the future come from another parcel of old vines, in the Chaumes des Perrières part of the vineyard. (For geeks, the Chaumes des Perrières vineyard is about ¾ Village appellation; the rest (0.30 ha) is premier cru and entitled to be called Genevrières. And while we’re at it, if you want to be more confused, Genevrières also encompasses 0.13 ha of the premier cru lieu-dit Les Chaumes de Narvaux, whose remaining 0.32 ha is classified Village—and, of course, is not to be confused with the 3.49 ha Village lieu-dit named “Chaumes des Narvaux”. Welcome to Burgundy.)

Bachelet-Monnot. Marc Bachelet, like others, emphasized the importance of picking dates. Here they began on September 4^th, as they prefer phenolically mature wines to those that are too strict and acidic. Nonetheless, Marc said he likes the energy and balance of the ‘23s and sees similarities to the typicity and density of the ‘20s. He said it was an easy vintage, without hydric stress, which made the wines quite aromatic, and produced beautiful lees. Yields here were about 40-45 hl/ha and alcohol levels about 13% on average. The whites we saw were mostly quite fine, including a fresh, charming and saline St. Aubin En Remilly and a Village Chassagne with good typicity if a very slight mid-palate heaviness. Best was the range of Pulignys, beginning with a Village Puligny, which was quite pure and had great clarity in the middle–a balanced, saline, and linear wine–and continuing with the Puligny Referts, a powerful and intense wine with floral and limestone aromas accompanied by notes of apple, nuts, and pear spice, as well as cream. Best of all was the Puligny Folatières, even more complex and dense than the Referts—a wine of grace and finesse, with an extremely long finish. 

François Carillon. François said he had been a bit worried about the quality of the ‘23s at first but finally was very happy with the wines. Harvesting began August 30^th and lasted 10 days, and François noted that in two decades, he has now done more August harvests than September ones. Overall, the quality of the range here was very good, beginning with an easy and pleasant Puligny Village. The Puligny Les Aubues (a Village lieu-dit situated on the Chassagne border and surrounded on three sides by Puligny Les Enseignères) had lovely balance, spice notes, and a creamy finish, and was easily of premier cru quality, while the Puligny Enseignères had good clarity, a beautiful floral expression, and a linear mineral finish. The Puligny Folatières, if a bit straightforward, was nonetheless full-bodied, with strong minerality and tree fruit notes. The Puligny Combettes had a creamy nose, with lots of tension in back—a potentially excellent wine that needs time. Best in the range was the Puligny Perrières: with a touch of almond, pear, and spice on the nose, it was penetrating, pure and extremely fine, with great transparency.

Chavy-Chouet. Picking began here on September 1^st and ended the 12^th. Alcohol levels for whites were between 12.5%-13.3%. Romaric Chavy said that ’22 and ’23 had the same structure, but that ’22 was drier, richer and denser, while ’23 is less dominated by the ripe fruit, and has more purity. This is overall a very successful range in ’23, though I did think that some of the wines, which had just recently been bottled, needed a bit of time to recover. Among those showing well were the opening wine, a Bourgogne Aligoté Les Maréchaux, which had bright fresh acidity and was charming; and the Village Maranges that had a lovely floral nose and fine purity. The Meursault Vireuils had a vivid nose and was easy to drink if perhaps just a bit on the fruity side, while the St. Aubin Les Murgers des Dents de Chien was bright and pure, with Asian pear and floral notes, and the Puligny Enseignères had a classic Puligny nose, a pure middle, and a spicy citrus finish. While the Meursault Genevrières felt like it could be excellent but needed time to round out, the Meursault Charmes was already there, with wonderful aromatics, showing spice, butter and a smoky touch, along with pear notes, excellent tension and transparency and a saline finish—very fine indeed, as Clive Coates might have opined. 

Alvina Pernot. This was our first visit to this young producer. Alvina Pernot, whose heritage lies in the Domaine Paul Pernot, struck out on her own in 2018, and built a new winery in 2021, which she runs with her husband, Philippe Abadie. Her vineyards come mostly from her share of the family domaine, with some additions from family or exchanges with friends. She prefers high-elevation vineyards, and early picking, as she is seeking to maximize tension in the wines. She also prefers short aging, and the ‘23s had been bottled before the ’24 harvest. The results were quite promising, particularly at the upper premier and grand cru levels. The Meursault La Piece Sous le Bois had a light mineral touch, a bit of wood, and floral notes, with some butterfat in the middle and a bright mineral finish; while the Meursault Poruzots was characterized by a punchy, driving acidity, and good transparency, if finishing slightly short. The Puligny 1er Cru Clos de la Jacquelotte, a lieu-dit within Champ Canet, was particularly attractive–a very minerally and powerful wine for Puligny, yet also reflecting characteristic lime and floral notes, and with exceptional precision. The Puligny Clos de la Garenne had more sweet fruit, but without losing its sense of purity and precision, and excellent length, while the Puligny Clos des Folatières was a bit on the rich and heavy side, yet still with enough balancing acidity, and had a particularly attractive finish of lime, minerals, white flowers, and tree fruit. The best premier cru was the Puligny Pucelles–with a pure, floral and delicate nose, this had serious depth but was beautifully balanced and had good drive and tension and a long, complex, saline finish. The Batard-Montrachet was also highly attractive, with a powerful but pure nose of white flowers and minerals; on the palate, its richness was perfectly balanced by the acidity, with notes of lemon, apple, peach and quince, and it had a well-modulated floral and transparent finish with lots of dry extract. Clearly, there is great potential at this domaine.

Henri Boillot. Picking began here in early September, with yields averaging 45 hl/ha, and alcohol levels mostly in the high 13s. Henri Boillot said ‘23 was a very good white wine vintage, a bit less so for reds. While we only saw a small portion of the range, what we tasted was generally successful, beginning with a Village Meursault that was creamy, spicy, bright and charming, and a Meursault Genevrières that had a pure, florally inflected nose and a creamy texture, if a slight bite of tart apple at the end. The Puligny Clos de la Mouchère was, as usual, outstanding, with a particularly attractive floral quality that ran through to the long and creamy finish, plus good acidity and tension in the mid-palate. The Corton-Charlemagne (from purchased grapes) was an attractive, pleasing, accessible version of this grand cru.

Alex Moreau. Alex Moreau, who began picking August 31^st, said there had been three weeks between the first and last pickers in Chassagne. Alcohol here averaged 13%, but Alex said some other domaines had come in as high as 16%. He thought the ’23s had good acidity, but that this was definitely a winemaker’s vintage, and that there was more variation in reds than whites. While, as at most domaines, there was some variation here, there were also a number of distinct successes. The Chassagne Village, if a little lean, was in an attractive minerally style, while the Chassagne Clos St. Jean was particularly appealing, with pear and limestone notes and a pure, driven mineral finish. The Chassagne Champgains was similarly excellent, if more floral and spicier, while the Chassagne Caillerets had the purity and linearity of the prior cuvées but more richness. The Chassagne Grand Ruchottes, still in barrel, had a tremendous amount of dry extract, and while it seemed to need more time to come together, had huge potential, as evidenced by the extremely prolonged mineral finish. The Batard was a confident wine, powerful but pure, with some creaminess and a touch of honey in the finish, while the Corton Charlemagne, from purchased grapes, was well balanced, with floral and honeyed notes, good transparency and grand cru weight. 

Joseph Colin. This was our first visit to this domaine. Formerly the winemaker at the family Domaine Marc Colin, Joseph Colin struck out on his own in 2016, and now has a 9 ha estate from which he makes 21 cuvées. Joseph said he puts a premium on freshness, and tries to pick early, though in 2023 he started on September 1^st and continued through the 12^th. He prefers 500- and 600-liter barrels and uses only 10% new oak. His alcohol levels in 2023 were between 12.5-13%. Joseph thinks ’23 is one of the best vintages of his career, and that the ‘22s are very good but fatter and with less acidity showing. These wines were indeed quite successful in ’23, including a fine group of St. Aubin premier crus: La Chatenière, which had a fruity, integrated palate, bright acidity and a pure, juicy finish; En Remilly, a particular standout with ripe peachy fruit and quince and lemon notes–this was full, rich, and intense, with great presence and persistence; and Les Murgers des Dents de Chien, with lemon and crème brûlée notes, a saline finish, and excellent intensity if a bit more linearity than the En Remilly. Puligny was ably represented by Le Trézin, characterized by an almost achingly pure minerality, and La Garenne, with a deeply pitched nose that included white pepper and floral notes, a strong salinity, and great intensity and freshness. The Chassagne Vide Bourse also showed extremely well, with the pure fruit that has always seemed to characterize this appellation, as well as excellent freshness, a good amount of dry extract, and fine persistence. The Batard-Montrachet, in cask and on its lees, had power and intensity, if still a slightly leesy character. The Montrachet (from the Chassagne side) was nothing short of brilliant, showing a pure, refined, aristocratic nose, with aromas of yellow fruit, honey, Meyer lemon, white pepper and white flowers; this had incredible balance and a spicy, saline, and very delicate, fine-grained finish.

Pierre Girardin. This was another first visit. Pierre Vincent Girardin, who was still a teenager when his farther, Vincent Girardin, sold most of the family’s vineyards in 2011, began making wine in 2017 and moved into a newly constructed winery in 2019. Pierre told us that the domaine currently consists of 6.5 ha, plus 5 ha en fermage, as well as an estate in the Jura. Pierre said that while he had been buying grapes in the Côte de Nuits, he has now stopped and going forward the domaine will produce about 90% white wines. 

The harvest began here on August 23^rd, among the earliest (one day after Leroy), and extended to September 5^th. (An initial sorting was done in the vineyards, about 10 days before harvest.) Yields in ’23 averaged from 55 hl/ha in Bourgogne to 40 hl/ha in the grands crus, with the maximum alcohol level being 12.5%. Pierre said he presses hard and long to get strong extraction. The whites are aged in 456-liter barrels, with no battonage, and spend 11-12 months in barrel and another 8-10 months in tank, still on their lees. The wines here are well-made and quite attractive, and while as is to be expected, there is some inconsistency, this is definitely a young producer to watch. The Meursault Narvaux was quite attractive, with a floral character and a pure minerality running through it, while the Meursault Charmes was particularly fine, with a pure nose, a light covering of butterfat on the palate, great tension and lift and excellent balance. The Meursault Perrières was a bit reduced, but with its perfumed character and deep and dry minerality on the finish, should be good in time, and the Corton-Charlemagne La Croix, while even more reductive, had great potential, showing near-perfect weight and an intense minerally acidity on the finish. Best was the Batard-Montrachet: though it too was somewhat reduced, the power and intensity shone through—dense, coiled and exceptionally extended on the finish, this will be a long-distance runner.

Pierre Vincent. Pierre Vincent, who was most recently the winemaker at Domaine Leflaive, was instrumental in the turnaround there in recent years. In July 2023, with investors, he purchased the Domaine des Terres de Velle in Auxey-Duresses, now renamed Domaine Pierre Vincent, and 2023 is the first vintage here. Pierre is a highly accomplished winemaker, and the wines are all, as one would expect, quite well made. 

Picking started here on August 28^th. Average alcohols for the whites were 12.8%. Pierre prefers a quick fermentation, believing that long fermentation times for whites have contributed to premature oxidation. Among the wines I quite liked were the Bourgogne Blanc, one of the better examples encountered on this trip, which was spicy and deeply minerally; and the Village Puligny, with a classic nose of lime, white flowers and spiced apples, while on the palate, the soft ripe fruit was well supported by the acidity. Also showing well were a Meursault Grands Charrons, with hints of apricot and jasmine, and good drive on the palate; and a Meursault Luchets that was fresh and bright, with richness and concentration on the mid-palate. The Chassagne Les Chaumées was even better, with excellent presence and equilibrium and an attractive floral note at the finish. This was followed by a very fine Meursault Charmes, with a calm, elegant nose and a creamy palate note; this had drive, excellent presence, and a saline finish. We finished with a very fine Corton Charlemagne, which had a complex nose that included notes of spiced apple, licorice, and delicate white flowers, and a great creamy middle underpinned by acidity that drove through to an extremely long and pure finish.

Comte Armand. This domaine has expanded its white wine offerings, including an excellent Bourgogne Chardonnay, which displayed sweet ripe fruit, a licorice note, and well balanced minerality; and a Bourgogne Aligoté, which was ripe, with a bright floral nose and a nice acid edge to it.

William Fèvre. This estate was purchased in 2023 by Domaines Barons de Rothschild Lafite, but it is too early to tell whether they will make significant changes; so far, the new owners appear to be proceeding slowly as they seek to gain an understanding of their new domaine. Our tasting was conducted, as usual, by the highly knowledgeable and ever-smiling Alain Marcuello, who is retiring at the end of 2024. We will miss him! Alain noted that the estate had been certified organic in 2023, and that the premiers and grands crus were being farmed biodynamically, though not yet certified as such. As is typical of the ‘23 vintage in the Côte d’Or, I found some inconsistency in the range, but the best were excellent, including the Chablis Vaillons, with a fine balance of fruit, oyster shell and limestone elements and a particularly fresh and sapid finish. The Chablis Fourchaume, which Alain said is not produced every year (only when it is sufficiently different to warrant not being included in the Vaulorent), had classic gunflint aromas, pear and floral notes, great balance and a particularly attractive flinty note at the finish; indeed, I preferred it to the Vaulorent, which while quite nice in its own right was more fruity and slightly more obvious in its appeal. Both the Chablis Bougros and Vaudésir were nicely balanced, with the former a bit heavier and the latter characterized by power and density, and both with a candied lemon aspect on the finish. I also quite liked the Chablis Valmur, with excellent presence and power, a touch of reduction, a smoky aspect, candied violets, and a penetrating long finish. The next three wines had all seen 35% wood and while they were at the moment a little cloudy, this did not seem to affect their approachability. The Chablis Preuses was complex and well-delineated, with an oyster shell finish and a touch of elegance to it, though my favorite was the Chablis Bougros Côte de Bouguerots, which was very fresh, with lemon and lime hints, a touch of gunflint, and a lovely underpinning of acidity, leading to a mineral, structured finish with lots of dry extract. The Chablis Clos, which could easily match the Côte de Bouguerots in time, was very large-framed and just starting to evolve, but seemingly with all the elements needed for an excellent, powerful Clos to emerge. 

Bouchard. See above for information about the changes taking place here. Picking for the whites began on September 2^nd. Yields were comparable to those in ’22 (though reduced by 40% for the Meursaults because of the July hailstorm). Average alcohol levels were 12.5-13%, with pHs in the range of 3.2 for the whites. The whites we saw were all very successful, including a Meursault Les Clous, which was bright, spicy, and well-knit, with a minerally, citrus finish—a lovely Village wine. The Meursault Genevrières had excellent purity, drive, and balance and a floral, slightly dry finish, while the Meursault Perrières was a strong contrast, being large-framed, broad, and powerful. While we only tasted some of the components of the Corton-Charlemagne and the Chevalier-Montrachet (itself a fascinating exercise), these were impressive, and their individual qualities boded well for the final blends. The Chevalier La Cabotte, now blended and in foudre, was creamy, intense, and pure—a wine that managed to be at once powerful and yet elegant. The Montrachet was similarly outstanding, with notes of cream, honey, and tangerine, richly fruity on the palate and yet with the acidity to balance–indeed it seemed closer in its minerality to the Chevalier than usual. Not a dense Monty, perhaps, but a very fine and detailed one. 

Drouhin. The maison began harvesting the whites on September 2^nd and picked quickly. Yields were mostly normal, according to Véronique Drouhin. The Côte de Beaune (which includes some portion of wine from the Clos des Mouches and is known internally as their “Baby Mouches”) had a bright fruit component, a floral note, and excellent balance; it is a terrific value. While the Beaune Clos des Mouches itself was of course denser and more complex, it still seemed to need some time to settle down. The Chassagne Morgeot Marquis de LaGuiche reflected a common aspect of this vintage, with a bit of tropical fruit (in this case, pineapple), a nice floral quality, and a softness to it that was not unattractive but suggests it might best be drunk on the early side (as most whites are these days anyway). The Corton Charlemagne was nicely balanced, with an understated charm and a lovely pure mineral finish. The excellent Montrachet Marquis de LaGuiche also seemed typical for the vintage: rich and honeyed, quite ripe, but with enough balancing acidity; this was developing good complexity in the mid-palate and had a persistent, spicy, and delicate finish. 

Benjamin Leroux. The white premiers and grands crus were picked at the end of August, starting the 29^th. Yields were around 55 hl/ha, with alcohol levels ranging from 12.8-13.5%. Leroux regularly produces some of the best wines from the little-known Hameau de Blagny, on the border between Meursault and Puligny, and in ’23, the Meursault Blagny La Piece Sous le Bois was bright, floral, and beautifully balanced, if with a slight touch of bitterness at the end. A second cuvée from the oldest vines in this vineyard, called 1950 Cuvée and to be bottled only in magnum, is well worth seeking out: with a piercingly pure nose and floral overtones, it was a complex and intense wine. The Meursault Genevrières, already in bottle, is a combination of the Dessus and Dessous climats, which have sometimes been vinified separately (though in ’24, the latter was pulled up for replanting). It was quite rich and buttery, but with good acidic lift and tension. The Corton Grandes Lolières (according to Ben, INAO has taken the position that, except for Corton reds, technically lieux-dits should not be specified for grand crus, though some producers of Clos de Vougeot and Echézeaux, for example, also ignore this proscription)—had a penetrating minerality that ran from nose to tail, along with a charming floral note and a touch of green apple. The Batard-Montrachet similarly reflected its own limestone origins while projecting power and intensity. 

Jadot. As usual, the malos here were partially blocked, and Frédéric Barnier said there had been 30% more malic than in 2022. As one might expect, there were characteristic malic notes throughout the range. A standout among those we tasted was the Puligny Clos de la Garenne, which had fine weight, a spicy finish, and lively minerality. The Chevalier Demoiselles had a pure, floral-inflected note on the nose and sweet pineapple fruit on the palate, and was already drinking nicely, while the Corton-Charlemagne was intense, creamy and had very good depth. Best was the Montrachet, with a beautifully pure, minerally nose, a sweet, honeyed mid-palate, and a long, aristocratic finish. 

Lafarge. There was some inconsistency here among the whites, but also a very bright and lovely Bourgogne Aligoté Raisins Dorées and a fine Beaune Clos des Aigrots, with great depth and purity, an earthy note, and good drive and freshness. 

Other Whites, from Côte de Nuits Producers:

Faiveley. Some very nice whites here in ’23, including a Meursault Charmes for which I wrote “this gets it right”–classic Charmes with excellent tension and direction; and a Puligny Champgains with notes of lemon squash, almond, and spice and a long finish with a slight tannic note. The Corton-Charlemagne didn’t seem to have quite come together yet and may be a touch overripe, though it merits being revisited. However, the Batard-Montrachet was almost achingly pure on the palate, and the Bienvenues-Batard was even better, beginning with a penetrating nose of limestone and white flowers that carried through to the palate, where it showed excellent tension and drive before dissolving into an elegant, extended finish. 

A Few Other Whites from Côte de Nuits Producers. Among those I would single out are: a spicy, creamy, round Corton-Charlemagne from Bruno Clair; a ripe, rich, and deep Puligny Combettes from Dujac; a ripe and charming Nuits Clos des Grandes Vignes from Liger-Belair; a very successful, fresh, pure and persistent Morey Clos des Monts Luisants from Domaine Ponsot; a sweet, peach- and mineral-infused Meursault Clos des Tillets (a monopole) from François Labet; and a slightly tropical but pleasant Musigny Blanc from de Vogüé.

As previously noted, some producers showed us only finished wines, and so are not covered here—Leflaive and Bonneau du Martray chief among them, but also, in Chablis, Samuel Billaud and Bessin-Tremblay. All of them made excellent ‘22s—and Brice de la Morandière was particularly effusive about his ‘22s, with reason, even if prices for the domaine’s wines are becoming stratospheric.

© 2024 Douglas E. Barzelay